The 10 custom suit brands every man should know

A few days ago, we shared our selection of the top 10 ready-to-wear suit brands. But when you want a truly impeccable look, nothing beats bespoke. Or at least made-to-measure. Especially considering that now, it’s no longer necessary to visit your tailor to get a perfectly tailored suit.

So, if you want to wear a suit perfectly tailored to your body shape, an ensemble that flatters your figure, here is a new sample of 10 bespoke suit brands to know. From new market players to historical houses, there is something for all styles and budgets.

Brioni

We start with one of the benchmark brands for a beautiful bespoke suit. Brioni is an Italian house whose craftsmanship has been beyond doubt since its creation in Rome in 1945.

From this period, master tailor Nazareno Fonticoli and his accomplice Gaetano Savini wanted to target the “most demanding men”, with custom-made clothes and handmade shoes. Quickly adopted by the international jet-set, Hollywood stars and the most influential members of Italian high society, Brioni bespoke suits remain essential today…Provided you have a comfortable budget, of course: no less than 3000 euros.

Costume sur mesure Brioni

Canali

We stay in Italy with a house that presents itself as “a paradigm of Italian luxury and masculine elegance”. Founded in 1934, Canali honors the made in Italy with clothes crafted by renowned artisans, using top-quality fabrics.

If the tailor-made suits from the brand are a must for lovers of sartorial elegance, Canali allows its customers to customize almost all of its clothing, from jeans to leather jackets through to coats or sweaters. And from the most refined to the most casual, there is something (almost) for all tastes, with prices slightly more affordable than Brioni (from 1500€ for a ready-to-wear suit) …

Costume sur mesure Canali

Scavini

The name sounds typically Italian, yet, it is in Paris that Julien Scavini opened his custom tailoring shop in 2011. Nothing seemed to have predestined him for such a career, as he previously studied architecture… However, having a proclivity for fine clothes and beautiful suits (which he likes to discuss on the Stiff Collar blog), he decided to obtain his CAP (Professional Aptitude Certificate) in tailoring and changed his career path!

He made the right decision since the Scavini house now delivers more than 800 suits per year, completely in half-measure canvases. Suits adapted to everyone’s morphology, made with a choice of over 3000 fabrics and with multiple personalization options.

Costume sur mesure Scavini

Cifonelli

Since 1880, the Cifonelli family has dressed the most prestigious men on the planet. Heads of State, movie stars and other artists… In over 140 years of existence, the family house has built a solid reputation in the world of luxury and elegance.

From the first workshop opened in Rome by Giuseppe to the cosy nest at 31 rue Marbeuf, in Paris, four generations have succeeded each other at the head of the brand, Massimo and Lorenzo wonderfully perpetuate the legacy of their great-grandfather. The choice of fabrics, mastery of craftsmanship, and the ability to reinvent themselves to keep up with the latest trends are all elements that explain the success of the Cifonelli house today and make it one of the best bespoke tailors. So, you’ll need to be able to afford to spend a few thousand euros to hope to wear one of these magnificent suits.

Costume sur mesure Cifonelli

Blandin & Delloye

In just over a decade, Blandin & Delloye has established itself as one of the new faces of suits in France. It was in 2013 when Cédric and Charles, its founders, embarked on this adventure, with a simple objective: to dust off the world of tailoring, “return to the basic principles of traditional tailoring while adapting them to current trends”.

The brand claims the use of fabrics sourced from major Italian and English cloth makers and the possibility of offering semi-canvassed or fully canvassed suits. With starting prices announced at €800, a very wide choice (7000 references available in-store) and a real individualized service, Blandin & Delloye has managed to make bespoke suits accessible to the greatest number.

Costume sur mesure Blandin & Delloye

The Free Shooters

Yves Chadeyras and Marion Couraud gave birth to Francs Tireurs roughly at the same time as Blandin & Delloye. So it was also in 2013, in Paris, that the couple launched this venture with the same desire to democratize bespoke suits. To make them undoubtedly more accessible, but never compromising on quality.

After extensive research that took him from Thailand to Romania, it’s finally in Portugal, near Porto, that Yves found the workshop that would manufacture the clothing for the Francs Tireurs (except the shirts, made in India). Beyond the expertise shown, it’s the effort for transparency and the sometimes irreverent tone of its creators that make the brand so endearing. And which invites us to warmly recommend it to you for the creation of a bespoke suit in Paris (from 890€!).

Costume sur mesure Les Francs Tireurs

Pini Parma

Sartoria italiana and made in Italy are on the menu at Pini Parma house, born, as its name suggests, in the side of Parma. Hidden behind the appearance of a “historical figure” is a brand created in 2017 by Thomas Pini who managed to offer a beautiful synthesis between Italian elegance and innovative design.

This translates into bespoke suits that appear classic, made from very beautiful fabrics, but which stand out due to numerous small details: here some topstitching, there pants without loops with a high waist or a tightening system with side tabs… All with excellent value for money.

Costume sur mesure Pini Parma

Lanieri

Lanieri was born in 2013 in Milan and significantly contributed to popularising “online tailoring”. Indeed, the Italian brand is one of the first to have offered a 100% digital experience to create one’s own suit.

Simplicity is the order of the day, with a wide choice of fabrics, multiple customization options (more than 10 million possible combinations!), all with a 3D configurator that allows you to admire your creation from all angles throughout the process.

Facing the success encountered and to attract a more “traditional” clientele, Lanieri has extended its experience by opening physical stores (in Paris and Lyon, but also Brussels, Zurich, Milan, Rome and Turin). A good way to judge first-hand the quality of these suits which remain very affordable (starting from 735€).

Costume sur mesure Lanieri

Hockerty

Here is perhaps the best competitor of Lanieri. At least the one that understood very early on that e-commerce could be the best solution to rethink the very concept of the custom-made suit. The adventure begins in the room of 3 entrepreneur friends as early as 2008, under the name of tailor4less.

In order to offer inexpensive clothing, the brand turns to China, a choice still embraced today. But to meet the demands of its customers, it modernizes and develops in 2010 the little thing supposed to make all the difference: an algorithm that calculates the ideal measurements of clothing, based on the customer’s height, weight, and age. And it works. The concept appeals and the Hockerty wardrobe expands to jeans, chinos and sneakers).

The result is obviously less precise than with a real tailor, but considering the prices offered (starting from 259€ for a tweed suit), Hockerty is an indispensable player in the tailor-made market for men on a small budget.

Costume sur mesure Hockerty

Zegna

We end this overview with a name that all elegance enthusiasts must know: Ermenegildo Zegna. Or simply Zegna, which has perfectly embodied Italian refinement since 1910.

Always present at the Fashion Week, the Piedmontese brand offers suits of exceptional quality. In addition, the My Zegna service allows anyone to benefit from the expertise of the style advisors to personalize the cut of course, but also, the fabrics and finishing touches. But for this, one should not hesitate to shell out several thousand euros; yes, excellence comes at a price!

Costume sur mesure Zegna

Purists will undoubtedly say that nothing beats a face-to-face appointment with your tailor to get a really beautiful custom-made suit. For those who will not have the chance to go to London, to Savile Row (at Huntsman, Richard Anderson, Henry Poole…), there are plenty of good addresses in Paris with Jonas & Cie, Torcello, Atelier de Luca…

Other brands would also have deserved their presence in this article, among them Kiton, but also Les Nouveaux Ateliers, SuitSupply (which we have already discussed in our selection of ready-to-wear suits), as well as big names in fashion like Armani, Tom Ford or Ralph Lauren.

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