The years go by but are not the same for Rolex, at Watches & Wonders. A year after breaking their own mold with their colorful watches (puzzle/pop/emojis!), the Crown brand has been more reserved at the 2024 edition of the grand event in Geneva.
Enthusiasts were still numerous to rush in front of the showcases to discover the brand’s novelties, especially the Deepsea and Sky-Dweller in gold. Yet it is a much more discreet model, “of rare distinction”, that caught our attention (and that of many observers). Sporting a new platinum case and a sublime bluish dial, the Rolex Perpetual 1908 will remain one of the most beautiful watches of Watches & Wonders 2024.
The 1908, a young but already essential collection at Rolex?
Submariner, GMT-Master, Datejust… Some collections have been essential for several decades at Rolex (the opportunity to extend a poignant thought to the neglected ones among others, the Cellini and the Milgauss). But in 2023, a new arrival managed to make a remarkable entrance among its prestigious sisters: the Perpetual 1908.
By dedicating this collection to the year the name “Rolex” was created by its founder Hans Wilsdorf, the collection pays tribute not only to a pivotal moment in the brand’s history, but also to the essence of the innovation that has always driven Rolex.
From its introduction, the 1908 captivated minds with its aesthetic… quite simple… yet radically different from the rest of the Rolex production! Subtly blending traditional codes and contemporary trends, the 1908 positions itself as a real alternative to the other collections of the brand. Among its distinctive signs, we can mention its fluted and domed bezel, its transparent back or even its leather bracelet with a green interior lining. Simple details, indeed, but which truly embody the “contemporary tradition” that Rolex wanted to present this newcomer with.
Close up on the new version of the Rolex Perpetual 1908
One year after the first four variants of the Perpetual 1908, Rolex has thus chosen to put it back in the spotlight at Watches & Wonders 2024. With new evolutions as subtle as they are successful.
A masterpiece of finesse and elegance, the casing retains its 39 mm diameter but exchanges gold for platinum 950. It might not seem like much, but visually and when putting on the watch, the feeling is astounding, both in terms of comfort and luxury.
However, it is indeed the new dial that makes all the difference. Gone are the traditional colors with a good taste of vintage: this time, the 1908 is dressed in a superb glacier blue dress. With its decoration of a guilloché rice grain motif, this dial plays with the light to reveal dynamic reflections with every movement of the wrist.
Framed by a timer adorned with Arabic numerals and faceted indices in grey gold, this 2024 vintage also dresses in a brown alligator leather strap with a platinum Dualclasp clasp and, of course, its green calf leather lining.
Inside this beauty, we find the calibre 7140 which appeared in 2023, an automatic winding mechanical movement equipped with a Chronergy escapement and a Syloxi hairspring optimized for performance. Visible through the case back, beautifully decorated with Rolex Geneva wave decoration and sporting an openwork yellow gold oscillating weight, this movement provides 66 hours of power reserve.
In summary, Rolex has perfectly converted the trial with this Perpetual 1908. The first editions born in 2023 had lit the fuse and the new 2024 watch keeps the flame alive. Elegant, classic, modern, refined… There are not enough adjectives to describe this platinum model and one could add the term “expensive”, since this new icon is priced at 31,300 euros.
