Originally designed for underwater enthusiasts, diving watches are highly technical timekeepers. This does not prevent them from being appreciated by land-lubbers because of their style which is both chic and sporty.
Because a pretty dive watch is not just satisfied with being waterproof, here is our selection of 10 beautiful diving watches from past and present, perfect for jumping into the water with style.
What makes diving watches so special?
As its name suggests, a dive watch is initially designed for underwater diving. Often large, in steel or titanium, it is also comfortable thanks to its rubber or technical fabric strap that adapts to suits.
Her muscular appearance comes from her ability to withstand high pressures but it also must be perfectly readable in the deep sea and meet the ISO 6425 standard which ensures its water resistance up to at least 100 meters. It is also equipped with a graduated unidirectional bezel and is resistant to saltwater… All this without forgetting to be beautiful.
The most high-performing models can also be equipped with a helium valve, allowing helium molecules to escape in case of a saturation dive in deep waters and during ascent, during the decompression phase.
To ensure its waterproofness as well as optimal operation of its mechanism, a diving watch should ideally be checked regularly by a watchmaker. Do not hesitate to have this check every 3 to 5 years depending on your usage.
Rolex Sea Dweller: the great classic
The Oyster Perpetual Sea Dweller from Rolex is a true classic. Perhaps even THE most emblematic dive watch in the world (OK, with the Submariner, but that was too easy!).
Launched in 1967, it’s a real professional dive watch. If it is already guaranteed waterproof up to 1200 meters, the technical Deep Sea Ultra-version allows diving up to 3900 meters deep! Its design is as classic as it is timeless, with its Oystersteel or titanium case from 43 to 50 mm.
As with many vintage Rolex watches, its value tends to skyrocket on the secondhand market, regularly flirting with 100,000 euros. Count at least 13,000 euros for a new model.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms: The Military Icon
Founded in 1953, the Fifty Fathoms is often considered the first military diving watch in History. It was also created to answer the needs of the combat swimmers of the US Navy and was worn by a certain Jacques-Yves Cousteau…
Some 70 years after its debut, this collection still makes the beautiful days of Blancpain and is no longer limited to the seabed. Flyback chrono, perpetual calendar and moon phases are part of the complications highlighted by these “fifty fathoms”. And while it has long appealed to true watch enthusiasts, it now also targets the “younger generation”, through the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms resulting from the partnership with Swatch.
Omega Seamaster: the watch of James Bond
If the Speedmaster of Omega can boast of being the first (and only) watch to have gone to the Moon, the Seamaster also has some merits to put forward when it comes to tackling the depths.
Its Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional version, unveiled in 2019, can thus descend to -10,935 meters without flinching! Even agent 007 trusts the capabilities of this Omega, as Daniel Craig wears a Seamaster in titanium in the film No Time To Die.
The Seamaster Diver range (waterproof up to 300 meters), available from 5000€, is one of the most desirable at the moment.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea: the innovative
If its name recalls the “extreme” version of the Rolex Sea Dweller, the Deep Sea from Jaeger-LeCoultre made its appearance as early as 1959. It then became the first in the world equipped with an alarm to signal to the diver that it was time to resurface.
In 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre honors this iconic watch through its The Collectibles capsule collection. Conceived as “a new program for watch enthusiasts wishing to acquire an emblematic piece of the history of the Grande Maison”, the Master Mariner Deep Sea is a potential collector’s item. Its price: 24,000 euros.
BR03-92: the original from Bell & Ross
The BR03-92 Diver from Bell & Ross is a model just a bit more “original” among diving watches since it adopts a rare square case associated with a round dial and angular lines. The brand even refers to it as “the first diving watch with a square case“. A typically Bell & Ross style, which confirms that the French brand is not just comfortable in the air.
Waterproof up to 300 meters, this BR03-92 diver watch appears to be designed to explore icy seas, polar oceans, or frozen lakes. In 2024, it even presents itself with a new limited edition neo-retro model in black, green and bronze which is absolutely beautiful. Its price: 4990 euros.
Tudor Pelagos: The Efficient
The one that was still seen as a “mere subsidiary” of Rolex just a few years ago, has now truly emancipated itself. Tudor is indeed experiencing increasing…and deserved success!
If its Black Bay is an iconic model, the Pelagos enjoys a very high popularity rating today. It was thus doubly rewarded in 2022, with the Pelagos 39 receiving the title of “watch of the year” while the Pelagos FXD was honored with the award for the best diving watch at the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève.
Waterproof to 200 meters or more (depending on the version), with a crown on the right or left (ideal for left-handers), in titanium or ceramic, this Tudor is one of the dive watches that offer the best value for money (starting from 4550 euros).
Calibre Diver: Cartier’s first diver
If Cartier made watchmaking history with its Tank as early as 1917, it took almost a century for the house to turn its attention to diving!
Thus, it was in 2014 that the Calibre Diver was officially launched, with an elegant 42 mm diameter case and water resistance up to 300 meters. It quickly came in many different versions (steel, rose gold, steel bracelet, leather…), before disappearing from the catalog. It’s a shame, because this watch complies with the famous ISO 6425 standard mentioned earlier and certainly does not lack style.
Alpina Seastrong Diver 300: the most contemporary
There’s no need to spend thousands of euros to find a beautiful diving watch, both stylish and durable. Alpina has already proven this many times with its Seastrong line, born in the 1960s.
The Swiss brand has also shown that it knows how to adapt to trends and consumer demands. Over the years, the Alpina diver’s watch has had very fashionable variations… and even connected with the Seastrong Horological Smartwatch.
In 2022, she even equipped herself with a 100% recycled steel case and a recycled plastic bracelet in her version named Calanda, named after the first ship to fly the Swiss flag in 1941.
Chanel J12 Marine: the most chic
Associating the Chanel house with the seabed does not seem obvious. Yet, in the early 2000s, the brand unveiled a Marine version of its J12, a unisex watch featuring a ceramic case, a rubber strap, and water-resistant up to 300 meters.
Undoubtedly more in its element at social dinners than underwater, the J12 Marine may not have achieved the anticipated success. But 20 years after its launch, this Chanel watch has not lost any of its charm and elegance.
Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk: the history
We conclude this overview of the most beautiful diving watches with another watch that has today disappeared from the landscape. At least it’s no longer accessible in current collections… but remains very popular with collectors.
This watch is the Sea Hawk by Girard-Perregaux, whose first generation dates back to the 1940s. Regularly reinterpreted since then, it stood out with its crown at 4 o’clock, its colored hour hand and its angles on the case.
Waterproof up to 1000 meters, it can now be found on the second-hand market at interesting prices (often less than 4000 euros), which can make it a beautiful collector’s model.
Similar to the aviation watches and military watches, diving watches are always very popular among men. As a result, there are many (very) references, some of which would also have their place in this list. We are thinking in particular of TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer, the Breitling Superocean, IWC’s Aquatimer, the Longines Hydroconquest, the Tissot’s Seastar (and why not the Citizen Promaster, the most affordable of all?). Lesser known models such as the Reservoir’s Hydrosphere or the Humbert-Droz’s HD9 may also find their audience in two radically opposite registers.
Finally, surfing on the neo-vintage trend, several brands have also resurrected historic diving watches. The best example is undoubtedly Yema with its Superman, but we could also mention the Skindiver Nautique by Vulcain, the 1521 by Squale, or even the Amphibian by Eska Watches, relaunched on Kickstarter (successfully) in early 2024.