Created in 2021, the WatchCharts Overall Market Index is a benchmark index in the watchmaking industry. Year after year, it tracks the price developments of 60 watches from the top 10 luxury brands in terms of transaction value (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet…).
It was in spring 2022 that this index hit its record: the average selling price of these 60 second-hand watches had risen to 45,000 euros. Since this peak, the used watch market has been experiencing a somewhat more complicated period and the Overall Market Index is the proof of this, having fallen below the 30,000 euro mark in February 2024.
If the Rolex Daytona (ref. 116500) still holds the top rank with an average resale price of 25,975€, its value has still slightly decreased (-1.4% over the last 6 months). The same observation for the Nautilus 5740/1G which, although it remains the most expensive of this top 60 in intrinsic value, sees its price just below the 200,000 euros.
However, alongside these prestigious watches, unattainable for the average Joe, the WatchCharts index highlights other models in which you can invest without making a mistake… and without breaking the bank. So, since time is money, here are the 5 luxury watches you should rush to get in 2024!
Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph
In 1969, Seiko shook up the watch market by launching the Astron, its first quartz watch. But that same year, another significant model made its appearance: the automatic Navitimer. Born in 1950, this watch was then equipped for the first time with an automatic winding movement, specifically the caliber 11.
Half a century later, the Navitimer remains one of the most iconic models of Breitling. Now powered by the Breitling Caliber 01, the B01 Chronograph (ref. AB0138) is the most sought-after version, with an average resale price increase of 6% over 6 months, to 6400 euros.
Its 43 mm case showcases a superb panda dial, surrounded by the iconic Navitimer slide rule. Could it be, the best rival of the Speedmaster?
Panerai Luminor 1950 44 3 Days Automatic
Here is yet another watch that finds its origins in the mid-20th century. The Luminor succeeded the Radiomir in the early 1950s at Panerai, revolutionizing the way time was read in the dark thanks to a brand new luminescent material.
Today, this diving watch has not lost any of its charisma, with its magnificent cushion case and its famous crown protector that allow it to dive to a depth of 300 meters without a shudder.
Launched in 2016, this PAM01312 reference quickly found favor with collectors, with its timeless style, black dial, luminous indexes, and blue hand for the small second at 9 o’clock. Powered by an automatic P.9010 movement, this Luminor enjoys a comfortable 72-hour (or 3-day) power reserve.
With a market price around €4800 (up by 4% over 6 months), this Italo-Swiss watch therefore remains an excellent investment for countless reasons!
IWC Portugieser Chronograph
For purists, the Portugieser is a cult watch in many ways. However, it is far from enjoying the popularity of some of its peers… The story goes that this model would get its name from two Portuguese importers, Rodrigues and Teixeira, who would have traveled to Switzerland to ask IWC to design a readable, accurate and above all large diameter watch. This is how the first “Portuguese” (then named Portuguese) was born in 1939 with its “large” 43 mm case.
If it has survived the ages, both good and bad, the IWC watch has also managed to reinvent itself to adapt to the standards of the time. This is evidenced by reference 371604 launched in 2019, which is now the delight of collectors. While it has maintained its exemplary sobriety and readability, its steel casing has increased to 41 mm.
With a price close to €5800 today, the Portugieser Chronograph represents an excellent choice for anyone looking to invest in a luxury watch that will not depreciate.
Omega Speedmaster Professional
If you’re looking for a watch that stands the test of time without losing its value or style, the Speedmaster seems indispensable. The timeless Moonwatch even seems more popular than ever, after the unexpected yet considerable success of the collaboration between Omega and Swatch.
But of course, it’s not the bioceramic watch that “true” watch enthusiasts dream about. Rather the traditional and contemporary version of this chronograph (310.30.42.50.01.002), whose value has risen by another 2.7% in the last semester, to settle at around €5600 on the second-hand market (compared to €8800 for its new price).
Here, the 42mm steel case houses the manually-wound 3861 mechanical movement, certified Master Chronometer, approved by METAS and resistant to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss. All this for a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. In short, a sure value in all areas.
Cartier French Tank
We conclude this small selection of watches to invest in by 2024 with the most affordable model of the WatchCharts Overall Market Index: you will need to spend around 1800€ for this Cartier French Tank to join your collection.
With its 20 mm case only, this Small version (ref. W51008Q3) elegantly perpetuates the legacy of a model born in 1917. Besides its square shape, this Cartier watch stands out for its mechanism: it is indeed the only quartz watch in the selection! Proof that a “simple” battery does not prevent a watch from having a certain prestige.
