Over 100 years after its creation, the myth of Cartier Tank is still intact. For watch enthusiasts, this model remains one of the most elegant and timeless in history… almost as much as the Reverso born 14 years later!
Immediately recognizable with its two parallel carriers, this rectangular watch has managed to transcend eras without showing a single wrinkle. Accessible starting from 3000€, its prices can skyrocket to over 100,000 euros for the most luxurious versions.
We therefore offer you to discover in this article some more affordable alternatives to the sublime Cartier Tank.
Why is the Tank de Cartier considered an icon?
Here is a historic watch in more than one way. After imagining the first square watch in 1904, the Santos, Cartier breaks the codes again a few years later by unveiling the Tank. We are then in the middle of World War I and Louis Cartier would have wanted to pay tribute to the American soldiers who came to liberate Europe.
The design of the watch, atypical for the time, is thus inspired by the Renault FT tank seen from above. With a bit of imagination, it is easy to understand that the square dial represents the tank’s cabin while the tracks take the form of the two parallel “stretchers”, which have become the signature of the Tank. The story also tells that Cartier offered the first example of his timepiece to General Pershing in 1917, with the official commercialization only coming two years later, at the end of the war.
Despite its military inspiration, the Tank stands out for its elegance, capable of adorning both male and female wrists. A symbol of luxury and refinement, the Cartier watch is quickly declined in new versions: the Tank Cintrée, more rectangular, the Basculante, inspired by the Reverso, the Asymmetric, which continues its geometric exploration, taking the form of a parallelepiped, or even the French Tank, with a square design that brings it closer to the original model.
As often, beyond its technical or aesthetic characteristics, it is the personalities seen with this watch that have contributed to its popularity. Over the decades, stars as diverse as Audrey Hepburn, Clark Gable, Alain Delon, Mohamed Ali, Yves Montand, Andy Warhol, Jackie Kennedy, Michelle Obama or Emmanuel Macron have thus sported a Tank on their wrist.
LIP Churchill T18
It may not have the same prestige, but the Churchill is at least as important for LIP as the Tank is for Cartier. Especially since it too, has been marked by history.
Reissued since the late 1980s, the T18 refers to a model born in 1935, just before the Second World War. At the end of the conflict, LIP resumes its activities in Besançon, with the development of the Type 18 caliber and its small seconds counter. Shortly after, a gold version of this watch was given to Sir Winston Churchill in 1948.
Even today, this rectangular watch with Art Deco inspiration is a great classic, available for less than 200 euros for the quartz version.
Bulova Sutton Classic
If Omega’s Speedmaster is the first watch to have gone to the Moon, the American brand Bulova also designed a “moonwatch”, with its Lunar Pilot chronograph worn on the Moon by the astronauts of the Apollo 15 mission.
Unfortunately for her, the house founded in New York has never enjoyed the same popularity as its Swiss rival. However, Bulova presents very nice models in its collections, like this Sutton Automatic, inspired by “the Presidential style of 1948”.
This rectangular 33×22 mm watch is powered by an automatic 82S0 movement, visible through an opening on the dial and the transparent back of the case. Priced at under 300€, this Bulova is clearly worth paying attention to!
Longines Dolcevita
In its version launched in 2022 with Yvonne Reichmuth, the Dolcevita is inspired by the world of horse riding, with its double strap evoking the reins and harnesses used by riders.
But the rectangular Longines watch also knows how to evolve in a more classic, elegant and contemporary register. With its Roman numerals and blued steel hands sweeping across a silver dial, the Dolcevita doesn’t have to blush in comparison to Cartier’s Tank. Especially as it offers a very attractive price-quality ratio for a luxury model.
Cuervo y Sobrinos Prominente Clasico
Born in Cuba before being relaunched in Switzerland, the brand Cuervo y Sobrinos offers very pretty vintage-inspired watches. From the sporty chrono to the elegant dress watch, there is something for all tastes and this Prominente Clasico takes its name from the biggest of the Cuban cigars, the “Prominente”.
Classic in appearance, as its name also suggests, this watch is nevertheless full of details. Like the rectangular box, slightly curved on the sides, the double rectangle finish of the dial or the trapezoidal date window at 6 o’clock.
Baume & Mercier Hampton
The Hampton collection, along with the Riviera and Clifton, is one of the most iconic from the house of Baume & Mercier. And since it is considered an excellent alternative to the Tank, it obviously stands out for its rectangular case.
Its wide edges give it an assertive character, reinforced by the presence of riveted indexes on the dial. As on the LIP Churchill, a small second appears at 6 o’clock and also adds charm to this reference 10528. It should be noted that this Hampton is available in many other styles and colors and so there is something for everyone!
Even if you have a small budget, you can get a presidential look with a stylish rectangular watch such as the Casio Collection for less than 100€, the Art Deco by Herbelin, the Festina On the Square, or certain models from Seiko.
Elsewhere, we can also mention the very elegant Oris Rectangular or even, with a little more roundness, the Boulton from Hamilton (Indiana Jones’s watch!). As for the iconic Reverso by Jaeger-LeCoultre, it’s probably the best rival of the Cartier Tank… and has been for more than 90 years!