To the general public, the name Daniel Roth might not mean much. But for watch enthusiasts, it should evoke some memories, the brand having been an icon of the 1990s, with a success as intense as it was fleeting…
In 2023, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton announced its intention to revive the brand (on the same level as Gérald Genta). Today, it is in Miami where the new Tourbillon Subscription is unveiled, as part of the LVMH Watch Week. And to say the least, this watch has left no one indifferent!
Daniel Roth, a figure in independent watchmaking
Having grown up in a family of watchmakers, Daniel Roth’s destiny seemed all laid out. Born in Nice in 1945, the young man honed his skills at prestigious houses such as Jaeger-LeCoultre and Audemars-Piguet. But it was his stint at Breguet that made him stand out, as the manufacturer was re-establishing itself in Switzerland after being severely shaken by the quartz crisis.
After a dozen years spent revitalizing the reputation of the Abraham-Louis Breguet house, Daniel Roth decides to embark on an adventure himself. In 1988, in his workshop in the Vallée de Joux, he created the brand bearing his name and quickly gained recognition thanks to unique pieces and a distinctive design. For him, the classic style of the 19th century can perfectly coexist with bolder details, like his emblematic double ellipse case.
A true watchmaking artist, Daniel Roth designs all his models in watercolor before bringing them to life. Purchased in the mid-1990s, his brand ultimately joined the fold of the Bvlgari house in 2000, itself a member of the LVMH group. But while the Italian brand regularly shines thanks to its Octo Finissimo, the name of Daniel Roth gradually falls into oblivion. Until La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton announces its rebirth in spring 2023.
Tourbillon Subscription: the most beautiful watch of LVMH Watch Week 2024?
So we had to wait nearly a year to really witness the comeback of Daniel Roth in the limelight. And what a comeback! Far from Switzerland, it is in Miami that this “pioneer of watchmaking” reminds us of his good memories, as part of the LVMH Watch Week.
Alongside Hublot’s exceptional MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System and Zenith’s incomparable Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, Daniel Roth’s Subscription Tourbillon shines with its elegance and unique aesthetics.
This is a very faithful reinterpretation of the Whirlwind ref.2187/C187 unveiled in 1989 and incidentally the first Daniel Roth model in history! Logically, we find the iconic double ellipse case, “fusion of a circle and a square” (in 18K gold on the prototype presented in Miami, in steel for future models). Subtly redesigned, it welcomes new horns and sees its thickness reduced by 2 mm, to only 9.2 mm. Beyond the aesthetic coquetry or the simple touch of Daniel Roth, this atypical shape sublimates the cage of the whirlwind, the real star of the dial. The latter is not left out, with its solid gold guilloche and its blued steel hands.
To animate this whirlwind, we will have to count on the DR001 caliber, a manual mechanical movement entirely developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, which gives this timepiece an 80-hour power reserve.
In addition to the prototype presented in Miami, only 20 copies of this Tourbillon Souscription will be produced. Sold at a unit price of 140,000 CHF (excluding taxes), they will be delivered to their future owners during the first half of 2024.
