Founded in 1777 by Abraham-Louis Perrelet, the eponymous brand enjoys a very rich history, as it is responsible for the first automatic watch. But 250 years later, how has it evolved? What is the value of Perrelet watches today? We give you our opinion in this article.
The history of the Perrelet brand
“Inventor of the automatic watch”. There is no doubt about Perrelet’s logo: the brand, created by Abraham Louis Perrelet in 1777, is indeed the origin of the automatic watch.
Born in 1729, the founder developed a passion for watchmaking in his teens and dedicated his time to developing precision instruments. It was during the 1770s that he came up with the idea of creating a mechanism that, after an initial impulse, could function indefinitely: thus was born the automatic winding mechanical movement in 1777. Perrelet then developed the first pedometer, and specialized in “learned” clocks, like the astronomical clock displayed at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1823.
In 1827, Perrelet is still credited with the development of the first split-second chronograph, but what follows proves to be more complicated. Indeed, it took more than 160 years for this name to return to the forefront of the watchmaking scene, thanks to the “double rotor” of the Dipteros watch, in 1995: the winding mass of the automatic movement is linked to a rotor located on the dial side.
This foreshadows another model that will become Perrelet’s icon, the Turbine. First appearing in 2009, its dial transforms into a propeller, with 12 titanium blades in constant rotation, driven by the rhythm of the automatic movement.
Beyond technical performance, the visual rendering is fascinating and Perrelet offers it as much as desired: in casino roulette mode or sheriff’s star, the creativity of the brand is limitless. However, watch enthusiasts continue to criticize Perrelet’s communication, especially since its acquisition by the Festina group a few years prior (in 2004).
The development of its first in-house movement in 2012 (the P-321 caliber) allows it to regain a certain legitimacy… if not notoriety. But almost 250 years after its creation, Perrelet wants to prove that it is still a watch brand that matters.
Our opinion on Perrelet
Praised for its originality, criticized for its marketing, the Perrelet brand is far from achieving consensus in the watchmaking community. However, it must be acknowledged that it offers models that tread off the beaten path, notably this famous Turbine, which has been reinterpreted many times.
Offered at around €5000, this one undoubtedly suffers from its pricing position in a highly competitive segment. A good reason to discover the rest of the collections, with for example a Weekend watch of timeless elegance, accessible at around €1500.
The iconic watches of Perrelet
It has been said and repeated: the Turbine is THE essential model of Perrelet. While it has long exhibited a generous case (from 44 to 48 mm), it has undergone a rejuvenation (and slimming) treatment by displaying a new size of 41 mm, which makes it more attractive than ever. Made of titanium and therefore ultra-light, this watch is as enjoyable to wear as it is to look at. Moreover, expect all eyes to turn towards your wrist…
In a completely different vein, the Weekend sports more conventional lines (and a dial), but which do not lack charm. Recently updated, it comes in the essential color of the moment, “glacier blue”. Depending on the version chosen, the watch could be equipped with a GMT complication or an ‘open heart’ skeleton dial.
Where to buy Perrelet watches?
The lack of recognition of Perrelet in France is undoubtedly due to its relatively limited distribution network: the brand is distributed at Medard in Versailles, Fréret Roy and Ochrono by Ocarat in Paris.
Online, besides the brand’s website, the collections are mainly available on Ocarat.
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