While Switzerland and France are often considered the countries of watchmaking, Japan also enjoys recognized expertise in this field. After having disrupted the watch sector in the 1970s and triggered the “quartz crisis”, the watches “made in Japan” have since gained true legitimacy.
From the 7 crystal balls of Dragon Ball Z to the 7 herbs eaten on January 7th, through the 7 gods of luck (the gods of Shichifukujin), the number 7 has a special significance in Japan (as in many other countries). A sufficient reason to offer you a list of the 7 watch brands to know from the land of the rising sun.
1. Seiko
We can say that Seiko is the pioneer of Japanese watchmaking. The brand’s history indeed dates back to the 19th century, when the young Kintarō Hattori opened his clock repair workshop.
Always at the forefront, the company can take pride in having designed the first Japanese wristwatch, the first chronograph as well, but also and above all, the first quartz watch in the world, the Astron, in 1969. This innovation truly revolutionized the watch industry worldwide.
Since its creation, the small craft workshop has morphed into a sprawling company, with the Seiko group now encompassing brands such as Grand Seiko, Credor, Pulsar, Lorus and also Orient, which we will talk more about later.
2. Casio / G-Shock
Do we still need to introduce you to the Casio brand and its range (originally) dedicated to toolwatchs, G-Shock? Founded in 1946 under the aegis of Tadao Kashio, it first made a name for itself thanks to its components for microscopes and other gearboxes.
It was only with the development of quartz watches and electronics that it dove into “watchmaking” or, more precisely, the manufacturing of digital watches, notably with the Casiotron, the first of its kind, in 1974.
Today, the brand remains known for its watches equipped with an LCD screen at a very low price (less than 30€ for entry-level) and for its G-Shock range, with its massive but ultra-durable models.
3. Orient
A subsidiary of the Seiko group, Orient is much more than a “sub-brand” of the Japanese giant. Because it also benefits from a long experience, having been born in 1950 thanks to Shogoro Yoshida.
The brand stands out particularly by manufacturing its own in-house movements, which allows it to offer automatic watches “made in Japan” at quite astonishing prices: between 200 and 400 euros for a “classic” timepiece, less than 500 euros for a model with a moon phase!
If the quality of the materials and some finishes can be improved, the price-quality ratio, however, is unbeatable. Indeed, like Seiko, Orient also offers a higher-end brand, soberly named Orient Star!
4. Citizen
Citizen, means “citizen” in English and this is no coincidence. For the brand born in the early 1920s aimed to produce watches finally accessible to the widest number of people. To the average citizens, in a way.
Founded on the principles of the Shoukousha Watch Research Institute, Citizen quickly established itself as the main rival of Seiko. It too had its first hour of glory in the 1970s, thanks to the development of the Eco-Drive technology, which allows the watch to be powered by tiny photovoltaic sensors hidden under the dial.
To make a place for itself in Europe, the Japanese brand has become increasingly attentive to the quality of its products and the result is there. Today, Citizen thus offers diving watches offering excellent value for money, like its very beautiful Aqualand. But the real star of its collections since 2022 is the Tsuyosa, which everyone is snapping up!
5. Hajime Asaoka
Born in Kanagawa Prefecture in 1965, Hajime Asaoka opened his design office in 1992 and developed his first watches from 2005. From there, everything quickly followed for the one who explains having learned the basics of watchmaking in books and internet videos… His first tourbillon watch, unveiled in 2009, allowed him to gain international recognition.
Very attached to his independence (he is also a member of the AHCI, the Horological Academy of Independent Creators), Hajime Asaoka continues to regularly expand his collections and remains very involved in the creative process. From the streamlined Tsunami to the skeletonized Chronograph, through the partially open-worked Tourbillon Pura, his watches have nothing to envy many models designed on the Old Continent.
6. Masahiro Kikuno
He too is a member of the AHCI and he too is self-taught. Masahiro Kikuno did not get into watchmaking to compete with Seiko or Citizen. For him, a watch is a work of art in its own right and he only works to order, so much so that his production does not exceed two pieces per year…
Considered by some (even a true genius) as the most talented watchmaker of his generation, Masahiro Kikuno is above all a unique creator. A man who worships beautiful watches and who is not seeking fame. In short, a rarity in this world, an artist who we would almost like to see less discreet!
7. Minase
We conclude this overview of Japanese watch brands with a house founded in 2005 in the city of the same name, Minase.
If she initially intended to stay in Japan, her fame allowed her to make a name for herself far beyond the Asian borders. But there’s no question of denying herself: Minase strives to promote Japanese craftsmanship with high-quality luxury watches, handmade and in small quantities.
This list does not claim to be exhaustive and Japan still hosts many watch brands worth exploring. Among them, we can mention Naoya Hida & Co and its handmade creations (which are truly worth discovering), Tacs and its “sophisticated minimalism”, Knot and its affordable watches, and also Tokyoflash with its products tailored for geeks!
Continue your world tour of watches! Discover the best watch brands from:
France | Switzerland | Germany | Italy | England | USA