Essential at the end of the 2000s and just as quickly deemed outdated at the beginning of the 2010s, ceramic watches seem to have regained a new popularity today (and not just those that use this material on their bezel!).
Black, white, or even more colorful, ceramic brings a new face to these timepieces, as well as an inimitable touch. So, if you want to give in to the trend, here are some of the most beautiful ceramic watches of the moment, from 3000 to… 250,000 euros!
Rado True Square Automatic Open Heart
In 1986, Rado unveiled what it presented as “the world’s first watch whose bracelet, crown and case are made of ceramic” (aptly named Ceramica). Almost 40 years later, the brand is still a reference in the field and most of its models are also available in ceramic, from the Diastar to the Captain Cook, via the Centrix or the HyperChrome.
With its latest interpretations, Rado has chosen to add a good dose of color, as seen in its True Thinline collection inspired by Le Corbusier. But the one it presents as the “perfect fusion between art and precision” is the True Square Automatic Open Heart: its 38mm square ceramic case highlights an openwork dial, revealing the workings of the R734 automatic caliber (with 80 hours of power reserve). Next to the “classic” black and white versions, this turquoise iteration is one of the stars of the season!
Bell & Ross BR 05 Black Ceramic
It’s in Geneva, at the Watches & Wonders exhibition, that Bell & Ross unveiled its new BR 05 Black Ceramic. Within its urban collection, the BR 05 has already had multiple iterations in steel, sometimes even with diamonds set on the case, but this one features ceramic for the first time.
To ensure that the model retains its character and power, Bruno Belamich, creative director and co-founder of Bell & Ross, has chosen to slightly increase the size of his watch, the BR 05 going from 40 to 41 mm in diameter. Or rather from side to side, since it retains its iconic square shape highlighting a round dial.
Even though it aims to be more urban, this Bell & Ross is still inspired by the dashboards of fighter planes, especially since its material allows it to withstand the toughest shocks! The BR 05 is still powered by the automatic caliber BR-CAL.321, partially visible through the openwork back of the case.
IWC Chronograph 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert
IWC is THE essential brand for everyone who loves pilot watches! These models typically stand out because of the readability of their dial, with oversized indexes, a large crown and/or a tachymeter scale to measure speed.
To give a new look to its aviator watch, IWC had the idea to collaborate with Pantone within the framework of a collection inspired by… the colors of Top Gun! The 41mm diameter chronograph features a ceramic case and a monochrome look inspired by the shades of the naval aeronautical world. Showcasing black, white, blue and thus beige, or rather “sand”, evoking the Californian desert of Mojave.
The back of the case is engraved with the famous Top Gun logo, the watch is also dressed with a rubber strap inset with textile.
Girard Perregaux Laureato
Sponsor of the F1 Aston Martin team, Girard Perregaux has unveiled several watches that pay tribute to this prestigious partnership and the iconic color of the manufacturer: green.
Thus, the 38 mm Laureato introduces itself in a green ceramic Aston Martin Edition, but we prefer this 42 mm version, more “masculine” and especially more sober! This is the first time the Swiss brand’s best-seller is dressed in black ceramic and it must be said that this outfit suits it perfectly.
Classic in its usual steel suit, the Laureato becomes noticeably more “modern” this way, and even more chic. For the rest, it obviously retains its main features, especially this textured dial and this octagonal bezel, which make this model an excellent alternative to Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak!
Richard Mille RM 30-01 Automatic
We are radically changing the register (and the price) for the last model of this selection. A few months after presenting its RM 30-01 in titanium and red gold, Richard Mille adds a third variant in white ceramic. This is not the first time the brand has indulged in this little fancy.
A true expert in high-end technological materials, Richard Mille has chosen ATZ ceramic (based on aluminum oxide powder) for the case and bezel of his RM 30-01. But beyond this stylistic choice of “eternal whiteness”, it is at the mechanical level that this timepiece stands out.
Powered by the RMAR2 calibre, this watch “embodies the excellence of Richard Mille’s expertise”. Visible on both sides of the case, this movement incorporates multiple complications (power reserve indicator, large date…) but above all a de-clutchable rotor. This is decoupled from the barrel when the watch is fully wound and only re-engages when less than 40h of power reserve remain (from 55 initially). This innovation allows to “limit the over-tension” of the barrel spring and, more simply, to extend the lifespan and accuracy of the mechanism.
As you will have understood, you can now find ceramic watches in almost all price ranges. From the Festina Ceramic for less than 200 euros to the new limited (and even unique) editions in white or black ceramic of the Royal Oak, there is something for all styles and budgets. We could further expand the list with the recent limited editions of the Defy 21 from Zenith, the minimalist watch from Herbelin for the 35th anniversary of its Newport… not to mention the bioceramic dear to Swatch, on its recent MoonSwatch Snoopy!