It’s not just about the Cartier Tank or the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso in life! Among the square-cased watches that have made history (not only in horology), the T18 from LIP holds a central place. And since this Art Deco icon from the 1940s has not lost any of its charm, the brand from Besancon has decided to reissue it identically… or almost!
The T18, a watch that has its place in History
“Do you know what the most produced rectangular watch in the world and the most famous in France, Russia and the United States is? No, gentlemen collectors, it is not the Prince of Rolex or the Reverso of Jaeger-LeCoultre, but the T18 of LIP which, between 1933 and 1949, was produced more than 400,000 copies.” The brand from Besançon has a knack for phrasing to introduce its new watch. However, not so new after all, since this one was born in the 1930s.
In the height of the Art Deco period, Fred Lip returned from a study trip to the United States and asked Andre Donat to design a unique movement. The goal: to ensure that this manual-winding mechanical caliber could be incorporated into an elegant rectangular case. Named T18, it lent its name to the watch it housed, which rapidly became a best-seller worldwide.
In 1947, the T18 even became the very first shaped wristwatch to receive a tourbillon. But it was especially in 1948 that the LIP watch definitively entered the history books: in recognition of the services provided by Great Britain to France during the Second World War, the French government called upon the Besançon factory to offer a T18 to Sir Winston Churchill. A prestigious gift that allowed this model to become a genuine watchmaking icon, even inspiring the most prestigious Swiss brands…
A particularly faithful reissue of Winston Churchill’s watch
Today, in full renewal (as evidenced by its status as the official timekeeper of the Grand Prix de France Historique), the LIP house now steered by Pierre-Alain Bérard regularly delves into its archives to honor its most iconic models. In this regard, the T18 still holds a special place in the hearts of purists and collectors.
But precisely, given the aura that surrounds this watch, LIP could not afford to make a pale copy. Thus, if the “new” T18 incorporates a contemporary manual winding mechanical caliber, its dimensions and construction largely reprise those of the movement once developed by André Donat.
Visible through the transparent back of the case, this new mechanism, machined in Switzerland by the LaJoux-Perret manufacture, stands out with a 3 hertz oscillating balance wheel. Assembled on the side of Besançon by the Humbert-Droz company, before being encased in the LIP workshops, it lets one admire its decorated components, from its barrel-shaped brass plate to its engraved bridges (“Besançon – France”, “LIP” and “T18”), including its pearl and “Geneva stripes” finishes. Once wound up, this T18 calibre gives the watch a 40-hour power reserve.
In terms of style, this reissue is also identical in all respects to the model given to Churchill. Slightly enlarged “to conform to current fashion”, the rectangular steel case is covered with two layers of 5 micron gold each (the first 18 carats, the second 24). The dial, also gold, appears under a slightly curved sapphire glass and features raised numbers applied by hand. At 6 o’clock, the small second hand travels another rectangle that enhances the sense of depth and the character of this T18. To perfect its outfit, the watch wears an elegant black alligator leather strap, handmade in an artisanal way, in Sibra workshops… always in Besançon!
The complete features of this watch
| Case | Gold plated steel Dimensions: 24 mm x 34.5 mm; thickness: 10 mm Domed sapphire crystal Transparent and screwed back Waterproof at 30 ATM / 300m |
|---|---|
| Dial | Golden dial Gunmetal color hands Applied gunmetal and railway indices Small second at 6 o’clock |
| Strap | Black alligator leather strap Golden steel deployant clasp |
| Movement | Mechanical movement with manual winding based on original T18 LIP Power reserve: 40 hours 21’600 alt/h, 21 jewels Accuracy: -12/+12 seconds/day |
| Reference | 676000 |
| Recommended retail price | 2490 euros |
In short, our opinion on the LIP T18 Original
Next to the Dauphine and Himalaya, the T18 is THE most iconic watch from the house of LIP. And for those who love vintage style in general, and Art Deco aesthetics in particular, this model is inimitable. If the latest references released by the Bisontine brand were content with quartz, purists will be delighted to find in this limited edition a “real” mechanical movement with manual rewinding, which is even more in line with the original dimensions. If we add to this a gold-plated steel case and a dial identical to Winston Churchill’s, we get one of the most beautiful reissues of the year.
Produced in only 180 numbered copies, this limited edition of the T18 is a perfect choice for all watchmaking enthusiasts. You will have to shell out 2490 euros to hope to wear this piece of history on your wrist.
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