Never since Watches & Wonders took over from the International Fine Watchmaking Show have so many brands participated in the major Geneva event. No fewer than 54 houses are indeed registered for this increasingly essential appointment on the calendar, with 8 participating for the first time.
From April 9 to 15, 2024, the 75,000 square meters of exhibition space (compared to 66,000 in 2023) is expected to see around 50,000 visitors and more than 1,600 journalists. Enthusiasts will be able to discover some of the most beautiful timepieces of the moment. Rolex, Patek Philippe, Montblanc, TAG Heuer, Jaeger-LeCoultre… Except for the brands of the Swatch Group (as well as Bvlgari and Breitling), the most prestigious houses on the planet are present at Palexpo to exhibit their most beautiful pieces.
If we add to this the brands that unveil their new products in the center of Geneva (notably at the Beau-Rivage Hotel) as well as at HEAD (High School of Art and Design) as part of the Time to Watches show, the city of Léman is truly the place to be for lovers of (very) beautiful watches.
So, to get this Geneva Watch Week off to a good start, we suggest you discover the models not to be missed at Watches and Wonders.
Gerald Charles Maestro Skeleton 8.0
The Gerald Charles house has set out to “perpetuate the creative vision” of its founder, a certain Gérald Genta. And it is safe to say that the brand honors the “watches and wonders” promised by Watches & Wonders with its new Maestro Skeleton 8.0 and Maestro Ultra-Thin 2.0 series of precious stones.
The famous Maaestro case, designed by Gerald Genta himself and inspired by the 17th-century Roman architecture of Francesco Borromini, is obviously present, here in new vibrant colors. On the Maestro Squelette 8.0, 66 baguette-cut gems are set all around this case for a captivating visual rendering, which is 14 more than on the Maestro Ultra-Thin 2.0.
True jewels, these watches benefit from equally meticulous work on the movement, whether it is the GCA 3002 or the GCA 5482, whose oscillating mass and micro-rotor are real masterpieces (let’s not mince words!).
Pequignet Royale Tourbillon
Pequignet is not just about Moorea! If the iconic collection celebrates its 40th anniversary in 2024, the French high-end watchmaking manufacturer is making a big splash in Geneva with a watch of unparalleled beauty: the Royale Tourbillon.
This is simply the first flying tourbillon ever designed by Pequignet. This limited edition of 24 pieces symbolizes a major advance in French luxury watchmaking and perfectly embodies the revival of the Mortuacian house.
Designed and assembled in Morteau, this flying tourbillon is a technical and aesthetic marvel, fitted with a 44mm diameter 5N rose gold case. The eye is irresistibly drawn to the midnight blue dial with a “wave” effect, showcasing the tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Powered by the Calibre Royal Tourbillon movement, this watch boasts a comfortable 88-hour power reserve. Mounted on a blue alligator strap, this piece is offered at 65,000 euros, available from September 2024.
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds
The Monaco from TAG Heuer, famous since 1969 for its bold design and association with motor sport, reinvents itself with the Split-Seconds Chronograph model for Watches & Wonders 2024.
This watchmaking masterpiece, blending tradition and innovation, is equipped with the mechanical rattrapante movement TH81-00, one of the most complex and lightest ever created by TAG Heuer.
Available in red and blue, with a case combining titanium and sapphire glass, this watch celebrates over a century of the brand’s chronographic precision. Its price, however, matches its sophistication: no less than 135,000 euros.
💡 Read our full article on the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Quantième Lunaire
(Note: This text does not need translation as all words are proper nouns)Again this year, the Jaeger-LeCoultre booth is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular at Watches & Wonders, recreating the forge of precision pioneer Antoine LeCoultre. But beyond the scenography and the highlighting of the Swiss brand’s crafts, it is indeed the new products presented that are worth lingering over. Starting with the sublime Duomètre Quantième Lunaire.
Seventeen years after the first Duomètre, Jaeger-LeCoultre enriches its collection with the Duometre Chronograph Moon, merging the precision of a chronograph with the elegance of moon phases. Powered by the new Calibre 391, this watch combines time measurement to the sixth of a second with a celestial display on a 29.53 day cycle, accompanied by a Night and Day indicator. This movement integrates two barrels for optimal precision, visible through the dial and the clear crystal back, at the heart of a brand new 42.5 mm case, inspired by savonnette pocket watches. Available in platinum with a copper dial and in rose gold with a silver dial, it features a contemporary design.
Let’s note that Jaeger-LeCoultre also presents in Geneva a new interpretation of its Quantième Lunaire, the first piece in steel from the collection endowed with an elegant timeless blue dial.
HYT T1 Series
Launched at Watches & Wonders 2024, the T1 SERIES marks a significant evolution in the design of HYT watches.
Indeed, we still find the display of the hydromechanical time that made the brand famous, but it had never been showcased in such a “limited” space. The T1 Series actually features a 45 mm octagonal case without horns, combining the progression of a colored liquid for the hours and a needle for the minutes.
Equipped with a 501-CM manual winding caliber offering 72 hours of power reserve, it is available in titanium and gold, with various dials, at a price of around 60,000 euros.
💡 Read our dedicated article on the new HYT T1 SERIES
Mister of Chanel Superleggera Intense Black
Following in the footsteps of Dio with his Chiffre Rouge watch at the beginning of the year, Chanel aims to clearly demonstrate that haute couture and high-end watchmaking are not incompatible… quite the contrary! At Watches & Wonders, it’s outright “Couture O’Clock” for the Parisian house.
In the women’s section, watches are hidden in dazzling jewelry shaped like thimbles or safety pins. But in a more classic and masculine vein, it is obviously the Monsieur de Chanel watch that caught our eye, in its Superleggera Intense Black edition.
This new limited edition of 100 pieces features a matte black ceramic and steel case, with a black guilloche dial. The CHANEL Manufacture Caliber 1 hand-wound movement incorporates an instant-jumping hour and a retrograde minute, offering a power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Its black nylon strap accentuates its sporty and refined look, reflecting a sophisticated style for watchmaking… and fashion enthusiasts!
Arnold & Son Longitude Titanium
The Longitude Titanium by Arnold & Son pays tribute to British maritime history with a 42.5mm titanium case, inspired by John Arnold’s marine chronometers.
The design, reminiscent of contemporary sailboats, and the dials in the colors of Cornwall, reflect a rich heritage. Equipped with an A&S6302 automatic movement certified by COSC, the watch offers a 60-hour power reserve, with complications including a small second hand and a power reserve indicator.
Available from 21,500€, this piece combines history and watchmaking innovation.
💡 Read our full presentation of the Arnold & Son Longitude Titanium watch
ArtyA Purity Stairway to Heaven
For its 15th anniversary, ArtyA debuts its first participation in Watches & Wonders. The brand, founded by Yvan Arpa, takes advantage of this occasion to unveil a new model in its Purity collection, named Stairway to Heaven.
Designed as a celebration of elegant simplicity, this watch stands out with its stripped-down dial, devoid of indexes, offering a new intuitive approach to telling time. Equipped with an exclusive movement and minimalist design, this piece reflects the philosophy of ArtyA: achieving purity through the complexity of watchmaking craftsmanship.
The emphasis is on a clear aesthetic, embodying the perfect union between art and functionality in luxury watchmaking. It’s simple, but it’s complex. And it’s especially very beautiful!
💡 Read our complete article on the ArtyA Purity Stairway to Heaven watch
IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar
In Geneva, the IWC booth also has something impressive this year. And not just because of the security service that surrounded the arrival of Gisele Bündchen on the first day of the show! For this year 2024, the Portugieser collection is the centre of attention, with a broad renewal.
The one that particularly stands out is the Portugieser Eternal Calendar (ref. IW505701) which represents “a major breakthrough in watchmaking” according to the brand. This IWC watch is indeed equipped with the first secular perpetual calendar, which automatically adjusts the lengths of the months and includes a leap day every four years. Going beyond traditional four-year cycles, it incorporates a unique 400-year gear, adapted to the specificities of the Gregorian calendar, and displays moon phases with such accuracy that it deviates by only one day every 45 million years.
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO²
(Note: There is no need for translation as all the words are proper nouns or technical terms that would remain the same in English.)The limited edition Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO² LE 1969 celebrates the spirit of exploration with a design inspired by extremes. Made with a CARBO² case, an innovative material incorporating captured CO2, this watch illustrates Montblanc’s commitment to sustainable innovation while offering a unique aesthetic. One can appreciate the detail of the luminescent engraving of Mont Blanc on the side of the case, as well as the beautifully decorated back.
Each watch is equipped with two rotating hemispheres on the dial, marking the peaks of over 8000 meters, emphasizing the adventure calling of the piece. With a water resistance of 10 bars and an automatic MB 29.25 movement offering a 42-hour power reserve, the Geosphere 0 Oxygen is designed for modern explorers.
💡 Read our full article on Montblanc’s novelties at Watches & Wonders
This selection is obviously subjective and far from exhaustive. With 54 houses present in the aisles of Palexpo, this 2024 edition of Watches & Wonders offers an impressive diversity: from the new Aquis by Oris to the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono by Chopard, via the reissue from Zenith, the new Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture by Frédérique Constant or the magnificent central tourbillon by Roger Dubuis, there is something for all tastes and (almost) all budgets!