A pioneer in watchmaking, the American brand Waltham disappeared from the radar in the middle of the 20th century. It was, however, the one that manufactured the first waterproof watches during the time of World War I.
She is back in the spotlight today thanks to Watch Angels, a Swiss watch incubator that has developed the concept of crowdmanufacturing. Discover therefore the new “trench watch” Waltham Field & Marine in preview.
Waltham goes back (finally!) Into battle
The United States has given birth to several renowned watch brands. Some of these “historic” brands have histories that are sometimes much richer than some of their European counterparts (and specifically Swiss). Among them, one can mention Hamilton and Timex, but also less-known brands to the general public, such as Benrus, Bulova or Waltham.
One of the first American watch brands
Its history dates back to 1850, when three men (David Davis, Edward Howard and Aaron Lufkin Dennison) decided to create their own company, set to become the American Waltham Watch Company from 1859.
Since its inception, the manufacturer has distinguished itself by the precision of its movements: this is what prompted the main railway companies to make it their official supplier at the end of the 19th century! Waltham was also rewarded at the first international precision watchmaking competition, organized as part of the 1876 Universal Exhibition in Philadelphia.
The first truly waterproof watch
At the beginning of the 20th century, the First World War shook up the global economy. But Waltham saw it as another opportunity to showcase its expertise. In support of the soldiers in the trenches, the company wanted to develop watches capable of withstanding shocks, but that wasn’t all. For if the mud and water don’t destroy your watch, the chlorine and mustard gas will!
This is how Charles Depollier developed a double set bezel telescope. This revolutionary design of the threaded hermetic case and the screwed crown make the Field & Marine a “virtually impenetrable” watch. And even “the first waterproof watch that really works,” as Waltham likes to say.
Nevertheless, the American company was not going to be able to capitalize on its innovations. After establishing a subsidiary in Switzerland in 1954 and ceasing its operations in the United States in 1957, Waltham disappeared from the scene until 2021, when Watch Angels decided to relaunch the iconic Field and Marine range.
Close-up on the Waltham Field & Marine watch
If diving watches are popular today (and not just among divers!), we can say that all these timepieces have something of Waltham. A kind of Depollier technology legacy, if we can say.
Unsurprisingly, the new Field & Marine also remains very faithful to the original. However, Waltham asserts that the goal was not to make an exact replica of the 1919 model, but rather a brand new watch, which preserves the codes of the time while meeting contemporary stylistic requirements.
New neo-vintage icon
Two new interpretations of the Field & Marine should allow Waltham to return to the forefront in 2022: a three-hand watch and a Dual Time GMT 24h watch. And it is precisely this last version, itself available in several colors, that we are introducing to you today.
Equipped with a 43 mm diameter case, this watch is imposing. In addition to this size, it’s the oversized crown that immediately catches the eye: while it weighs down the timepiece’s silhouette, the overall feel is very comfortable to wear, even on a small wrist. And if we disregard these aesthetic considerations, this design also provides better waterproofing, up to 300 meters deep. A nice way to give more meaning to the word “marine” in the lable Field & Marine.
Topped with a domed glass, the dial displays a neo-vintage aesthetic that is particularly trendy. In this version, it is adorned with a white enamel finish (but also exists in green and blue) and welcomes two additional counters: a power reserve at 12 o’clock and a second 24-hour time zone at 6 o’clock (adjustable via a push button hidden in the 4:30 case).
The date window appears in a traditional manner at 3 o’clock and we also note the presence of indices in a style reminiscent of American planes from the Second World War. The hands, also oversized, are coated with X1 grade Super-LumiNova, offering optimal brightness (and quite durable) in the dark.
If the 3-hand version is powered by the classic Sellita SW200, it is a Soprod C115 caliber that brings this GMT watch to life, giving it a power reserve of around 42 hours.
The complete features of the watch
| Case | Stainless steel with brushed effect Domed sapphire glass Crown with bayonet system Diameter: 43 mm; thickness: 13.18 mm Waterproof up to 300 meters |
|---|---|
| Dial | White email Applied indices Super-LumiNova Grade X1 hand Power reserve Second time zone Date window |
| Strap | Black leather with easy change system |
| Movement | Swiss Made Soprod C115 Calibre 28,800 A/h Power reserve: 42 hours |
| Price | 1425 € |
In summary, our review on the Waltham Field & Marine GMT watch
In the end, Watch Angels provides a very beautiful rebirth for the Waltham brand. If it was designed for trenches nearly a century ago, this new Field & Marine watch should be able to feel at ease on all terrains.
Waterproof, robust and elegant, it benefits from a neo-vintage aesthetic highly prized today in the world of watchmaking. A genuine potential collector’s item, this Field & Marine Dual Time is available exclusively on the Watch Angels e-shop for 1425 euros. The basic 3-hand version, for its part, is available from 950 euros.
