Vetiver wood, ginger, and patchouli are among the ingredients frequently found in men’s fragrances. Recently, we have also seen the emergence of scents such as vanilla or tonka bean. But there is another one that is becoming more and more essential: the fern.
From CK One by Calvin Klein to Le Mâle by Jean-Paul Gaultier, all the way to the new Cerruti 1881 Silver, it can be found in many masculine fragrances. But why is fern so popular? And why is it not like any other ingredient?
A true symbol of masculinity
In the perfume industry as elsewhere (in fashion for example), some stereotypes persist. In the same way as “pink is for girls”, people often tend to say that “jasmine is for women and ginger is for men” in the perfume aisle. At least in our western regions.
Fortunately, in perfumery as elsewhere (again), the world is not always so binary. This is the case with fern, a very prized ingredient by perfumers, which we find at the heart of the unisex perfume CK One by Calvin Klein and used since 1889 in the feminine perfume Jicky by Guerlain.
The fern, a member of the family…
However, let’s be honest, it is indeed in the men’s department that the fern has taken a prominent place for many years. It is part of the olfactory family of “aromatics” and “orientals”, which includes creatives as iconic as Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, Kouros (Yves Saint Laurent), Drakkar Noir (Guy Laroche), Le Mâle (Gaultier)…
We have to go back to 1882 to find “the first fern ever created”, as explained by Pierre-Constantin Guéros, senior perfumer at Symrise. It was “Fougère Royale”, from the House of Houbigant, that established “a new family of fragrances which is still today the most popular for masculine fragrances”. Yes, it’s not the fern itself that is used, even if it’s the one that defines this family.
Virility, freshness and strength
Bergamot and lavender at the top, rose or geranium at the heart, then tonka bean or oak moss at the base: the recipe is often the same. But the result is always up to par or almost so, both “masculine, invigorating and dynamic”.
If ferns are appealing, it’s because they evoke a sense of freshness: “they provide a man with a feeling of cleanliness throughout the day, whatever his activities may be”. Strength also characterizes the fern, thanks to amber and musk notes that allow it to provide “a lasting freshness“. In fact, it recalls the sensation men had when coming out of the barbershop: this is typically what characterizes ferns in perfumery.
Omnipresent in the 1990s (with CK One and Le Mâle, therefore, but also Paco Rabanne’s XS and then Azzaro for Men), the perfumes of this aromatic family are still very popular in 2020, but sometimes in a more subtle way. Today, perfumers manage to “reinterpret and rejuvenate the iconic raw materials of masculine perfumery”: roasted beans, iris notes and vetiver wood, but also coconut and pineapple… The fern family is not done surprising you!
The best fern family perfumes for men
We will say it clearly, once and for all: a fern perfume does not contain fern! The plant that you can find in the undergrowth just serves to give its name to an olfactory family. Lavender, citrus, geranium, oak moss or tonka bean are among the ingredients regularly found in these aromatic fragrances.
Next to the iconic creations already mentioned above (Le Mâle, CK One…), we invite you to discover here the best current fragrances from the fern family. You will see that it hides some real gems!
Cerruti 1881 Silver
Silver is indeed the variation of the iconic 1881 fragrance born in 1990.
Proof that the fern can now be beautifully reinterpreted, this eau de toilette created by Aliénor Massenet and Maurice Roucel is distinguished by ingredients such as large green basil and Madagascan ginger. Add to this some lavender, geranium (also from Madagascar), patchouli and amber notes to get a fresh and sensual perfume that is very much in keeping with the times.
Another distinctive feature: its silver bottle which directly refers to its name, Silver.
Bvlgari Man Glacial Essence
The Bvlgari Man saga is enriched with a new eau de parfum named Glacial Essence, a creation for men who are fans of wide-open spaces (and grandeur in itself).
According to its creators, this one “captures the untamed majesty of icy mountains”. Here too, ginger and geranium are included, supported by notes of juniper berries, as well as hints of sandalwood, iris roots, cedar and musk.
The “lasting freshness” characteristic of the fern family perfumes truly takes on its full meaning here.
Emblem of Montblanc
Montblanc loves fern. Its fragrance Legend is proof of this, but this time at least we’ll prefer its… emblematic creation: Emblem. A logical name for a perfume whose bottle shape directly mimics the brand’s logo.
For a fern fragrance, Emblem stands out for its certain originality with its top notes combining grapefruit, sage and rosemary. In the heart we find cinnamon, violet and (of course) geranium, before a base of precious wood, tonka bean and patchouli.
Fresh, contemporary, invigorating: the Montblanc fragrance is one of the best references in the men’s section.
Gentlemen Only by Givenchy
Francis Kurkdjian is an internationally renowned perfumer. He is responsible for the excellent Mr Burberry, Carven for Men, Narciso Rodriguez For Him and even a certain Le Mâle by Jean-Paul Gaultier. And it is also this nose that we find behind the masculine essence Gentlemen Only by Givenchy.
Launched in 2013, this aromatic perfume combines the distinctive freshness of fern with wooded and spicy scents, offering a beautiful contrast between citrus and the notes of cedarwood, patchouli and vetiver. In between, it is the pink berries and nutmeg that enhance the seductive power of this Givenchy eau de toilette.
Beau de Jour by Tom Ford
If Saint Laurent invites you into the Night of the Man, Tom Ford prefers to play it “diurnal” with his Beau de Jour perfume. A gentleman’s fragrance, dominated by lavender, beautifully paired with geranium, African rosemary, mint, oak moss or even basil.
Launched in 2019, this fragrance may not be among the best sellers of the year, but it’s still a great success. It will also help you stand out from other men: in short, this Beau de Jour has everything to please!
